After More than a Decade of Cooking for Others, They Forgot What They Themselves Like to Eat

Three Beijing-drifter domestic workers — Suying, Huirong and Qiu Hua — plan a week’s menu for their employers yet cannot say what they themselves like to eat. On days off they stir-fry in Hongyan’s small kitchen for a tableful of sisters, and crouch on bare ground beside the tongzilou, planting Chinese chives and baby bok choy back in the soil.