From Local Markets to International Awards: The Fermentation Journey of Chinese French-style Cheese

In this episode, we explore the wonderful world of cheese—the ultimate fermented food—and share the story of Liu Yang, the founder of Bule Cheese and a true Chinese cheese artisan.

A Beijinger with a background in IT, Liu Yang stumbled upon the art of stirring milk and making cheese while studying in France. He found the process “incredibly therapeutic”, and it was this experience that sparked his passion. During the 2008 Olympics, Liu experimented with homemade cheeses for journalists from the French delegation—an encounter that gave him the confidence to turn his passion into a business. In 2009, he opened his first artisanal cheese shop, joining the Beijing Organic Farmers’ Market two years later.

Starting from a humble stall at the Huilongguan wet market, Bule Cheese blends French tradition with the local *terroir* of Beijing. Through its unique products, the brand has witnessed a profound shift in how cheese is embraced in China. This innovative approach to cultural fusion has earned Bule Cheese numerous accolades in international competitions.

From soft and blue to goat’s cheese, the variety can be overwhelming. How do we find our favourite flavour when choosing a cheese feels like opening a “blind box”? Our guest, Liu Yang, will pull back the curtain on the craft behind various artisanal cheeses.

We also discuss the distinction between industrial and artisanal cheese: while industrial versions typically use pasteurised milk, artisanal cheeses often use raw, unpasteurised milk to preserve natural enzymes, resulting in a far more complex fermented flavour profile.

As a rare producer of over a dozen different varieties, Bule Cheese now faces the challenge of scaling up “from workshop to factory”. Yet, the brand continues to evolve. This year, Liu developed an Alsatian *Tarte Flambée* using various Bule cheeses and ecological ingredients from small-scale farmers at the Beijing Organic Farmers’ Market—now available at “Ji Shi”, the market’s community shop.

Finally, Liu Yang shares his personal cheese-pairing tips and joins us in exploring a curious question: why do fermented foods seem to grow in flavour and become more addictive the more we eat them?

If this episode has whetted your appetite or sparked a desire to try your hand at fermentation, don’t forget to watch the video below. Join Liu Yang to learn how to make beginner-friendly cheeses; Mozzarella and Ricotta may sound sophisticated, but they are far easier to make than you might think!

This Episode’s Guest

Liu Yang

Founder of Bule Cheese Studio, Beijing. Judge for the cheese category of the French Agricultural Awards, President of the World Cheese Guild (China Region), and recipient of the Knight’s Medal from the Saint-Maure de Touraine Cheese Guild. He is dedicated to promoting the culture of artisanal cheese.

This Episode’s Host

Xiao Chao

Former Project Officer at Foodthink and a fermentation enthusiast. His experiments with fermented foods include kombucha, sauerkraut, Sichuan pickles, yoghurt, and sourdough.

Tianle

Editor at Foodthink and convener of the Beijing Organic Farmers’ Market. He has helped Liu Yang sell cheese for over a decade, but unfortunately (or perhaps predictably), Boss Liu has yet to strike it rich.

Timeline

00:40 The introvert at the stall: A Chinese man capable of making cheese, yet a decade ago, he could only silently serve mulled wine at his stand.

01:55 Experimenting with homemade cheese during the 2008 Olympics, impressing French journalists on assignment.

02:31 The first cheese shop: Opened in a wet market, sandwiched between a roast lamb leg stall and a phone card vendor.

04:06 The difference between artisanal and industrial supermarket cheese: artisanal cheese is like “opening a blind box”—perhaps because the microbial flora within is still “alive”.

09:43 Supermarket shelves are brimming with varieties—soft, hard, goat, cow… but how should cheese actually be classified?

12:12 Falling in love with the craft after accidentally helping someone stir milk and make cheese while studying in France.

15:28 Beijing Grey, Beijing Blue, Beijing Red… using the local terroir of Beijing to craft French-style cheeses.

19:04 Half the success of cheese lies in the milk source. Where to find the best? By building relationships with local dairy farmers and plants of all sizes.

21:41 Industrial cheese production primarily uses pasteurised milk to ensure a consistent, high-volume mass-market flavour. Conversely, some artisanal cheeses are carefully crafted using raw, unpasteurised milk to preserve the natural enzymes, resulting in richer fermented flavours and a wider diversity of products.

24:45 Have you ever wondered if the consistent flavour prized by industrial food is, in fact, a form of discipline imposed upon our taste?

26:26 Bule Cheese Atelier, one of the few in the world producing over a dozen varieties simultaneously, now faces the challenge of scaling from a “workshop to a factory”. Is this a step worth taking? And how is it achieved?

31:23 A new development for Bule Cheese: you can now enjoy galettes made with Bule cheese and small-scale farm produce at the Sanyuanqiao Collective store in Beijing!

39:17 What is the true nutritional value of natural cheese? Beyond calcium, protein, and vitamins, these cheeses are fermented by beneficial bacteria, transforming them into a form of superior nutrition.

41:47 How should cheese be enjoyed? Proprietor Liu shares his personal pairing secrets, spanning both Western and Chinese cuisines. For instance, Beijing Grey paired with roast lamb leg reveals a surprisingly unique flavour—it is no wonder that fermentation is, in itself, an art of surprise.

48:03 Foodthink and Proprietor Liu present: Did you know that Mozzarella and Ricotta, which sound so sophisticated, can actually be made at home? Let’s give it a try!

56:53 Why do fermented foods become more flavourful and addictive the more we eat them? Our dietary choices seem to evolve in a constant state of flux, shifting and adapting. If our gut microbiome is a dynamic balance between beneficial and harmful bacteria, then consuming high-quality fermented foods bolsters the beneficial ones, leaving our bodies more enriched.